You can't drag dead fish on a stringer behind the boat for several hours and then expect them to have an excellent flavor later in the day. Fish are like any other kind of food. Whether you plan to freeze, can, smoke, pickle, or eat your catch fresh, care must be given to preserve the flavor and keep them from spoiling.

In general, small fish are more perishable than larger ones, and deterioration in dressed fish is slower than in whole fish, but the latter are spoiled more readily by bacteria. Also, these changes occur more rapidly at summer temperatures and more slowly at cool temperatures.

Proper preservation begins the moment the fish is hooked and pulled from the water. How you initially handle a fish can greatly affect its quality, taste, and storage life.

First of all, the fish should not be allowed to flop around on the ground or in the bottom of the boat, where repeated bumping against raised ribbing and other objects can cause bruising. Once the fish has been restrained and the hook removed, it is best to keep it alive as long as possible. Most modern sport boats are equipped with a live well designed specifically for this purpose.

If a fish dies, it should be gutted and cleaned as soon as possible. In the meantime, remove the dead fish from the water so its flesh doesn't absorb water and swell.

A good idea is to carry plastic bags for the fish filets to hold in natural flavor and juices. Wash the fillets with cold water. To preserve the tasty juices and keep meat in its firm, natural state, avoid overwashing--do not flood with a hard running faucet or hose. Fillets can easily be dried with a cloth or paper towel. (For a free printed brochure describing the best way to fillet a fish, send an email message including your mailing address to Linda Campbell, requesting "Fish Filleting" linda@seagrant.wisc.edu)

If a cooler of ice is not immediately available, wrap the fish loosely in a damp cloth or paper and place it in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight (under a boat seat, for example). Leave space around the wrapped fish for air to circulate and evaporate the moisture from the wrapping material, which will help keep it cool. Keep the wrapping material moist so the wrapped fish stays cool and its skin does not become dry.

Pack the fillets in a cooler with plenty of ice before transporting it home. The cooler or ice chest should have a false bottom to collect the water from the melting ice. This will keep the fish from floating in and possibly soaking up water in the bottom of the chest. If the trip home is a long one, you should occasionally stop and drain the ice-melt from the chest.

Failure to ice your catch promptly may result in the flesh having a soft, open texture. Severe deterioration is indicated by a condition called "belly burn," in which the ribs have become separated from the flesh. Inadequate bleeding and delayed gutting will cause blood clots to form in the flesh.

Once you are home, the fish should be processed as soon as possible.

Fish can be preserved in several different ways. Canning is most widely used commercially. Any type of fish can be pickled; herring, northern pike, and suckers are all very good pickled. Smoking is often done more for flavor than preservation, so it's important to pay attention to food safety and spoilage issues. Freezing is the most common method used, but it is only effective if the product is handled in such a way that its quality is kept near its peak freshness.